Zeitgeist

Have you noticed how fashionable 'traditional crafts' are at the moment? At the beginning of the last recession, one of the only businesses with an increase in turnover was sewing machine manufacturers! So whether people are making for themselves or looking for an outlet, this seems to be the upcoming thing. 'How-to's' abound. That is a lovely thing, people can find out methods & techniques that before would have taken years of research.
Lately, I think even the B.B.C were amazed at the success of a couple of their programs.
'Mastercrafts'.  Monty Don with his erudite and understanding view of craftspeople and their problems - he was in the business for a while - his light touch and instinctive empathy made this a stunning production.
Ruth Goodman, Alex Langlands  & Peter Gill, on 'Tales from the Green Valley', 'Victorian Farm' (and the upcoming 'Edwardian Farm'), have gone from strength to strength. Having known Ruth for a while, we were not exactly surprised at the plaudits the programs have received, but the number of them.

So is it their passion for the subject that makes them so inspirational to others? When Gini & I went to school we had teachers that had, after their names, more letters than the Royal Mail can deliver in week. - (but that's another blog)! The point is that most could not teach. We just wonder what we'd be, if all our teachers had been 'inspiring'?
Even a picture can inspire. Gini has been wanting to make the dress on the left since the publication of the book "Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail"- Lucy Johnston  in 2005 - Five years later and that's been done - but there's plenty more pictures out there!

Firm Foundations

A long time ago I was told that when designing,  "Form follows function". This was coined by Louis Sullivan  in 1896. What he actually said was "form ever follows function" and he was talking about architecture.  It really doesn't apply in costuming where the clients' choice, the purpose and the status of the garment means that 'function follows form'!
Still, any garment has to be built on firm foundations and the 'architecture' will not be right unless you work from inside out, building the undergarments layer upon layer to give the correct shape.
The stays in the picture are from the last quarter of the 18th Century, made in silk and hand made from start to finish taking over 40 hours.You may well ask why we've made something by hand when it will hardly ever be seen. I suppose there are a few answers to that.

It is difficult to know the feel of a garment until you have worn it, the restrictions and posture it gives you, helps inform us for other work.
It could be that they end up on display for educational purposes somewhere, where the stitching and construction can be seen in great detail.

You know, I was once in a design studio, when one of the creative people shouted "It will do!" about one of the jobs they were working on. I walked out. If you're not giving of your best, you're not doing your job.
Gini once said that "good design costs no more than bad design".
What I'm really saying is the stays are for when "That will do!" - just won't cut it.

'In Camera'

Rather a busy month, as we had 9 Regency outfits to produce, including a repro of this one on the left, which I think is stunning - Lady Worsley, by Joshua Reynolds. We turned up at the venue hoping to get some good shots of the costumes in action. Guess what? The camera decides to have a 'hissy-fit' and refuses to work! So if anyone has good photos of the weekend?  - I'm Begging!
We hope to include this outfit in the next fashion show- along with others.

I said in the last post that I'd put up links to the rest of the fashion show 'highlights' videos, so here they are in order.
Part 1 overture
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7 Finale

Fashion Shows

At last I got the video from the last Fashion show and even putting up edited highlights is going to be a 'part work'! There's about 90 minutes worth to edit downThe first part is here. I KNOW it's called part two, but the first one is Gini doing the opening musical number and a lot of costume people won't want to see it. (if you do, go here)!  I'll put up the rest as they get finished.The videos were taken on a domestic camera, but I think Gabi & her husband have done very well! 
We are all ready in the process of writing the show for March and  have ideas for November, which is the 20th Anniversary of T.O.R.M, so that one has to  be spectacular! Well, even more spectacular!

Fashion Forensics ©

It has long been an ambition of Ginis' to let others see what she is privileged to investigate. In her work, a lot of access is granted to 'touch and handle' extant garments in the archives of museums and it does seem a shame not to let others see them.  If people are lucky enough to see these they are usually in glossy 'coffee table' books with maybe two pictures! Museums unfortunately are working with limited display space and only a few of pieces in a collection are ever on view to the public at one time. The Kyoto Institute is a good example where they have about 60,000 photographs of their collection and have produced wonderful books of what some of our friends call 'frock porn'(!). If you ever go there you will find about half a dozen outfits on display - the rest are 'in the archive'! The V.&A. Museum are at the moment trying to close down the musical instrument section to give more room to the textile collection, which does seem a bit like throwing the baby out with the bathwater. (Gets off high horse - and back to the subject)!
We have an idea of making videos of some of the initial inspections, which will show the materials, structure, construction, previous conservation, alterations - almost the C.S.I of clothing!
They will be of  interesting pieces in the lesser known collections. Did you know that Bassetlaw Museum has about 5,000 costume pieces, for instance?  In the meantime, we have a web album of the one one the left A victorian ensemble of 1872. The staff and indeed, the public were fascinated at the detail that came out.  I'll try and put the captions up very soon - when the phone stops ringing!

The Music Lesson

Well, A Happy New Year to you all!  I hope all our British & European readers aren't suffering too much in the truly awful weather conditions. We actually didn't get stuck in the snow,  but our car had a little problem and refused to start.
It took our Automobile Association, 6 days to get it sorted! ( I would have written A.A. there but that would look like we had a different problem! -"My name is Tony and I haven't had car trouble for six months"!) Anyway, the snow stopped customers getting to us, suppliers delivering to us and us delivering to customers, which caused a few headaches.

A break in the weather did give Gini a chance to get to Birmingham Museum to deliver and set up the display shown on the left, which is a copy of the ensemble shown in the painting "The Music Lesson" by Jacob Ochtervelt (1634-1682). Both gown and painting are on show at Birmingham Museum  & Art Gallery. 

Deeper analysis of this portrait raised some questions about the bodice/jacket and its construction - particularly the back. Looking at other portraits by Ochtervelt and his contemporaries, working in the low countries at this time period and examining other extant garments, did not resolve the questions and it may be that either the jacket/bodice is somewhat anomalous, or that we have discovered a style for the period previously unrecorded. With only one painting pointing towards this style of bodice back we still cannot be sure.

Historical Fashion Review

Fashion Show November 2009

"Wow"! seemed to be the reaction from all the audience at the Historical Fashion Review at TORM last weekend. We've had lots of e-mails all ready. C.B wrote
 "My friends and I ALL forgot to bring our cameras with us, which was very annoying.   It was a marvellous parade and it was great to be able to talk to people and to see the costumes at close hand and pick up some tips.   You are all so talented!"  Even the participants  had a great time, which is lovely as they all donate their time and expertise gratis. Some of the ensembles in the review were truly amazing and we  thank all the other costumiers for their efforts. Debbie Lough Costumes, My Lady's Wardrobe, Harman Hay, Prior Attire, Sarah Gilkes, Cloak'd & Dagger'd, Anne Laverick, Janes' Wardrobe, Amourclass,  Jo Badger Historic Costumes and Dressing History. Other organisations helped as well, Chris Bruce from Plantaganet Events, Ian Pyecroft from Black Knight Historical, Kirsty Sherwood and Rachel  Wanklin from Tamworth Castle,  Lin from Birmingham Museum and a big thank you to all the costumiers customers and models, who 'strutted their stuff' (but VERY elegantly!). Thanks to all the 'dressers', stage managers, sound and light technicians who helped put some extra features into the show.
Apart from the fashion show, we met some of our 'mail order' customers from abroad for the first time. It was lovely to meet you all and we hope you enjoyed your stay in England. This show is getting very cosmopolitan and the number of visitors from other countries is astounding!

Oyez! Oyez! Oyez!

A Town criers' clothing from the early part of the 18th Century. The client is the crier for Castle Donnington, a town in the midlands, which has had a town crier since the late 1200's!
 This position going back so far, Terry decided that he ought to have an earlier costume than most town criers, who usually decide on a  coachmans  coat  from the regency or early victorian - and because he liked the style!

I am aware that this blog is read in over 20 countries, so I'd better explain what a 'crier' did.
Really, he was  a town officer who made public proclamations, normally using a trumpet or bell to gain the attention of the crowd, before bellowing the news or public notices as loudly as he possibly could! Usually announcing his presence by shouting 'Oyez! Oyez! Oyez! (or similar, it seems nobody can decide or find out what was originally done)!


Competitions are held throughout Britain for the loudest and best dressed crier - We think that Terry is in with a shout - for both categories!

French Hood & Feedback

We got some feedback on our first French hood kit this week :-
"Hi Gini, I think overall it took me about 10 hours. I had to hand sew nearly all including the French seams as my machine died whilst tackling the buckram early doors!. I really enjoyed making it, and it was fantastic value. I only added some more billaments from a local fantastic craft shop I found in Retford. The one really tricky part was the sewing of the final linen lining in the finished coif. Thanks for all your help it was a great experience bringing history alive; I cannot stop looking at it! Many thanks again, Sian".
Really nice to know when something works first time! The picture on the left shows the finished hood and we really think Sian did incredibly well for her first piece of historical clothing!

It's not the only nice feedback we've had lately. L wrote:-
"Btw, I went on to your website it's even better than ever - wow! The blog is fab & as for the gallery...that calash is to die for, & as for the passementerie buttons...I was salivating! The heralds coat for Kp is sooo cute! It brightened my day up, that's for sure... "

N. Left us a lovely comment here.
A. A textile designer from Italy, thinks we're the best E.C.W supplier he's seen and hopefully he's going to come to The Original Re-enactors Market this year to meet us......
Simon wrote:- The costume is absolutely fantastic. I'm not lying when I say that it has exceeded all of my expectations!I love the close firm fit of the doublet. I appear to have lost around a stone in weight when I wear it! As soon as I can I'll get some photos sent up to you to add to your porfolio, if you wish.
(Yes, please Simon)!
I also ended up on Uberbrum (of all places!), while having a break at 'Talk like a pirate day'!

Thank you one and all, but be sure that we're not going to rest on our laurels and that there will be some new and exciting ensembles ready soon!
We are also working on the Fashion show for T.O.R.M in November. All ready, we have a spectacular show in prospect and we'll keep tweaking the show until it squeaks!

P.S Congratulations to Birmingham on getting TWO gold awards at 'Britain in bloom'! (See Here) One award is brilliant, two is outstanding!

'Anne Boleyn' French Hood

If people approach us at a show and their shopping list goes something on the lines of "Do you have any buckram, domette, black velvet, pearls...?" We could probably finish the list for them, as the chances are that they are looking to make a 'french hood'. Our first question is usually,"Have you made one before?" - as these can be tricky! If the customer is new to milinery we then try and explain what is required. "Do you have any white silk, millinery wire?".... and the list goes on.
We have decided to produce these in kit form and the kit will contain everything needed to make an 'Ann Boleyn style french hood'. All you need to add is needles, thread and have a day or two to spare! Full instructions will be included and we've put up a hidden step by step pictorial guide on picasa - that you will have access to - 50 photographs showing every step from the basic pieces to fitting the bilaments (ornaments).
Available in two sizes, Child (and small adults) and Adult.
Hopefully, these will save you running from one haberdashery shop to another to find what you need and discovering you have to buy far more than the quantity required - when you find it!
The only question left is, are you going to pluck the hair out on your forehead, as the tudors did, when you wear it?!
We made this one with a gold crescent so it would show up better in the photographs and the bilaments will be pearls only as in the original.